The Best Revenge

Bubba Peugeot and the Pickerel

“Good news!” a friend told me this morning in Rockford.  “McDonald’s is closing 16 restaurants in Serbia.”  Apparently Serbs, who eat the best “hamburgers” in the world and serve them with excellent bread, have stood up to the fast-food wing of the New World Order more stoutly than they resisted Madeleine Albright (though which is less appealing, Big Mac or Big Maddy—the woman should be forbidden to expose those legs in a skirt—is hard to say).

One of the closed restaurants was in Zrenjanin in Banat, a part of Vojvodina (the region between Belgrade and Hungary), where people eat as well as they do anywhere on the globe.  After I appeared on a television show in Zrenjanin last October, the host took me to an old brew-pub where we gorged on barbecued meats and fresh beer.  In the old days, this brewery had been owned by Dundjerski, the richest Serb in Austria-Hungary.  Once, on a trip to Budapest, Dundjerski ordered beer in a fashionable restaurant.  A group of Hungarian aristocrats, want-ing to show their contempt for the peasant, ordered a huge bucket of beer and used it to cool their bottles of champagne.  Undaunted, Dundjerski ordered a bucket of champagne with which he cooled his beer.  Dundjerski lived it up in Budapest, and, if his wife was away, he entertained actresses at his estate in Vojvodina, drinking and frolicking in his swimming...

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